Plaza Hidalgo in central Coyoacán, Mexico City
One of the more tranquil of Mexico City neighborhoods, Coyoacán retains much of its colonial-era charm. It also happens to be one of my favorite Mexico City neighborhoods, so much so that shortly after we first arrived in Mexico City we even considered living in the neighborhood, but later ended up deciding on the place we have now.
The name Coyoacán translates to “Place of Coyotes” in Nahuatl and this area is said to have served as Cortés’ base after the fall of Tenochtitlán. Today the neighborhood is known for being artsy, intellectual and popular among tourists and expats, yet it still remains relatively affordable and unpretentious.
Statues of coyotes in the fountain in the Jardín del Centenario in central Coyoacán
Coyoacán is located 10km south of the Centro Histórico, close to the University and was once home to Frida Kahlo, one of Mexico’s best known artists. Frida Kahlo’s Coyoacán home, La Casa Azul, or The Blue House, is now a museum. Interestingly, at the time of her birth in the early 1900s, Coyoacán was still a small town on the outskirts of Mexico City. Today, it’s practically part of the downtown area.
The neighborhood is easily reached via public transportation. The Mexico City Metro stops in front of Viveros de Coyoacán park, a 390,000 square meter nursery and garden that’s popular among local runners. After exiting the metro, walk south (to the right when facing the fence) and take the first left on Avenida Progreso. Enter into Viveros and wander along the pathways leading through the gardens before exiting on the southeast corner of the park. One block south of the park is the Plaza Santa Catarina.
The lovely Santa Catarina church and plaza
The Plaza Santa Catarina is a quiet plaza located several blocks west of Plaza Hidalgo, Coyoacán’s main central square. Here you’ll find the Santa Catarina church and across the street is the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles, a neighborhood cultural center housed in a colonial estate with a large open-air courtyard and outdoor café.
Throughout the year, the cultural center hosts a variety of community events and workshops. Each year in October the grounds are decorated with elaborate Día de Muertos ofrendas and life-size catrinas. Here are a few photos:
Statues of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera in the courtyard of the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles (you can see the start of the ofrendas to the right of Diego)
The most elaborate of the ofrendas welcomes visitors into the courtyard
Pretty talavera tiles accent the exterior of the cultural center building and cempasúchiles add an extra splash of color
Candles line the paths through the courtyard (we didn’t get a chance to return after dark, but I can only imagine how beautiful it is once all of the candles are lit)
The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles is located at Avenida Francisco Sosa 202 in Coyoacán. It’s open daily from 9am-3pm and 4pm-8pm and admission is free.
From the Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles it’s just a 700m walk east (to your right as you exit the cultural center) along Avenida Francisco Sosa to reach the archway that leads into the Jardín de Centenario and the adjacent Plaza Hidalgo.
México Today, in association with Marca País – Imagen de México, is a joint public and private sector initiative designed to help promote Mexico as a global business partner and an unrivaled tourist destination. This program is designed to shine a light on the Mexico that its people experience every day.
Disclosure: I am being compensated for my role as a contributing writer for México Today; my opinions, as always, are my own.
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I really enjoyed exploring with you.
Love the talevera photo!